Don Silvers

Red Chile Sauce

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

5 dried New Mexico chiles

5 dried California chiles

5 ancho chiles

2 Tablespoons olive oil

1 yellow chopped onion

3 cloves garlic, sliced

2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican

3 cups chicken broth

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Chile Rellenos

4 fresh Anaheim chiles

1 Tablespoon canola or corn oil

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter

1 shallot minced

1 teaspoon fresh minced thyme

9 ounces mixed mushrooms such as chantrelles, oysters, cremini, or button, sliced (3 cups)

1/4 cup dry sherry

1 teaspoon kosher salt

4 ounces of fresh goat cheese, such as Laura Chenel

1 Tablespoon all purpose flour

1 Tablespoon cornstarch

2 Tablespoons olive oil

Crumbled cotija cheese for sprinkling

For the chile sauce: In a dry medium skillet over medium heat, toast the cumin seeds until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Grind in a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder. Stem the dried chiles and remove the seeds. Break the chiles into 1-inch pieces. Return the skillet to medium heat and toast the chiles, stirring until fragrant, about 1 - 2 minutes. Do not allow to burn. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add hot water to cover, and let stand 20 minutes.

In a heavy, medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic, toasted cumin, and oregano. Drain the chiles and add to the onion mixture along with the chicken broth and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes.

Working in batches if necessary, puree the sauce in a blender. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Return to the pan and set aside.

For the rellenos: Preheat the broiler. Ina medium bowl, toss the Anaheim chiles with the oil to coat and place on a baking sheet. Broil 4-6 inches from the heat source until the skins begin to blister, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the broiler and let cool to the touch. Peel off the skins, slit the chiles down the sides with a paring knife, and carefully remove the seeds. Set aside.

In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallot and thyme and saute until the shallot is translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook stirring occasionally, until they have released most of their juices, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the sherry and salt and cook until the mixture is almost dry. Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes. Stir in the goat cheese. Refrigerate for 10 minutes.

Mold one-fourth of the mushroom mixture into an oval and stuff it into a chile; repeat with the remaining filling and chiles. If the chiles tend to fall open, secure each with a toothpick. I a shallow bowl, combine the flour and cornstarch; stir with a whisk to blend. Dredge the chiles in the flour mixture to coat.

Reheat the chile sauce over low heat. Meanwhile, in a medium nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chiles and fry until browned and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove the toothpicks. Ladle the hot chile sauce onto each of the 4 salad plates and top each with a fried stuffed chile. Garnish with the cotija cheese. Makes 4 first-course servings or side dishes.