Don Silvers

Chilled Melon Soup with Jalapenos

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 jalapeno chile, seeded and minced

1 ripe cantaloupe or honeydew melon (about 2 1/2 pounds) halved and seeded

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup seasoned rice wine vinegar, plus more to taste

1 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, plus a few sprigs for garnish

2 teaspoons kosher salt

About 1/4 cup creme fraiche for serving

In a small skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the jalapeno and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Remove from heat and set aside.

Scoop out the flesh of the melon and cut it into small chunks. Working in batches if necessary, put the melon chunks in a blender with the buttermilk, the 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar, the mint, and salt. Puree until smooth. Add the jalapeno and pulse to mix. Taste and add more vinegar as desired (up to 1/4 cup, depending on the sweetness of the melon).

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours; whisk to recombine before serving. To serve, ladle into shallow bowls and dollop with the creme fraiche. Makes 4 first-course servings.

Wine Pairing: Alexander Valley or Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc.

Spicy Watermelon Gazpacho

1 teaspoon pasilla chile powder

1 teaspoon pimenton(Spanish smoked paprika)

1 teaspoon New Mexico chile powder

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

1 small seedless watermelon(about 3 1/2 pounds), peeled and cut into chunks

1/2 red onion, finely chopped

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

1 yellow bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus springs for garnish

2 limes, plus 1 more if needed

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced for garnish

In a small dry skillet, combine the chile powder, pimenton, and New Mexico chile powder. Stir over medium heat until lightly toasted and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

In a small pan, combine the sugar and water. Stir over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved; bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Put half of the watermelon in a blender and add 1/4 cup of the sugar syrup. Blend until smooth. Set aside. Finely chop the remaining watermelon and put in a medium bowl with the onion, peppers, cilantro, and toasted spices. Grate in the zest of 1 lime. Add the watermelon puree and the juice of 2 limes; taste and add more if needed to balance the flavors. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

To serve, spoon into small bowls or glasses. Garnish each serving with cilantro sprigs, avocado slices, and a slice of lime and serve. Makes 6 first-course servings.

Wine Pairing: Chilled dry rose of Syrah or Grenache, or Pinot Noir.