Don Silvers' Blog & Articles



down home : downtown "Seasonal Recipes from two Sonoma Wine Country Restaurants" by:( jeff mall, zin restaurant & wine bar & josh silvers, syrah bistro)

Thursday, February 4, 2010

"Down Home" Jeff's dishes are hearty and homespun, leaning on American South and Southwest cooking methods and seasonings, yet with Sonoma wine country twists.

He grows most of his own produce and cures his own bacon; his chickens provide eggs to Zin. and he roasts chiles in his backyard.

"Down Town" Josh has a Euro-California viewpoint, his dishes are refined yet complex, with layered flavors that come from combing French and Italian cooking techniques with Sonoma-grown ingredients.

His multicourse tasting menus, expertly paired to wines from Syrah's extensive list, add a cosmopolitan accent to the Sonoma dining scene.

Jeff's Frisee Salad with Bacon and Deviled Eggs:

Deviled Eggs

6 large eggs

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 1/2 pickled jalapeno chiles, minced

2 teaspoons pickled jalapeno juice from can

2 teaspoons minced fresh chilves, plus more for garnish

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Frisee Salad

2 heads frisee or curly endive, outer leaves discarded

8 slices bacon, cut into small dice

1 shallot, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 cup sherry vinegar

1/4 cup of canola oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the deviled eggs: Put the eggs in a deep saucepan and add water to cover. Place over high heat, bring to boil, and boil for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Drain the water roll the eggs gently around inside the pan to crack the shells, and place in a bowl of ice water for 15 minutes. Peel the eggs and cut hem in half lengthwise. Push the yolks through a sieve into a small bowl and mix with the mayonnaise, jalapenos and juice, chives salt, and pepper. Spoon the yolk mixture into a pastry bag and pipe it into each egg-white half, or spoon it into the halves. For the frisee salad: Tear the frisee into bite-sized pieces (you should have about 8 cups). In a medium skillet, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until crisp and browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels and discard all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Add the shallot, mustard, and vinegar to the pan and whisk to blend. Gradually whisk in the oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Add the warm dressing and bacon to the frisee and toss.

To serve, divide the salad among 4 salad plates. Top each salad with 3 deviled egg halves, garnish with chives, and serve. Makes 4 first-course servings

Frisee Salad Lyonnaise

6 slices apple-smoked bacon, cut into 1/4-inch wide sticks (lardons)

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 ounces Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots

Vinaigrette

1/3 reserved hot bacon fat (above) plus olive oil, if needed

1 1/2 tablespoon sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

4 large eggs

8 cups frisee or curly endive, small yellow and pale green leaves only, rinsed and spun dry.

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley.

In a medium skillet, saute the lardons over medium heat until crisp and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the fat from the pan into a glass measuring cup and reserve. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lardons to paper towels to drain. Add the olive oil, potatoes, and shallots to the hot pan and saute until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the vinaigrette: Add olive oil to the reserved bacon fat if necessary to make 1/3 cup. In a small bowl, combine the bacon fat, sherry vinegar, brown sugar, garlic, mustard and 3 grinds of pepper. Whisk until well combined, Set aside and keep warm.

In a deep saute pan over medium heat, bring 2 inches of water to a simmer. Add the cream of tartar and stir to dissolve. Break each egg, one at a time, into the simmering water. Poach until the whites are firm but the yolks are still runny. 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the eggs to a plate.

In a large bowl, toss the frisee with the vinaigrette. Add the lardons, potatoes and shallots, and parsley. Toss again and divide among 4 serving plates. Top each with a poached egg and serve. Makes 4 first-course servings

Posted by Donald E. Silvers at 03:57 PM | General Recipes | Comments (0) | Permalink | Top of Page