Don Silvers

This recipe is from one of my favorite cookbooks. If you want an Italian cookbook that gives you the glories of what Italian food is about then this is one of the books you need to have in your library.

5lbs small red skinned potatoes

1 to 1 1/2 cups milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 large onions, minced

1/2 cup minced parsley

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup minced fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive Oil

1 cup (4 ounces) freshly grated Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Working Ahead: The potatoes can be prepared the day before serving, up to the point of baking the casserole. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before the final baking.

Cooking the Potatoes: Scrub the potatoes and place them in a 6 quart pot with cold water to cover. Put the lid in place, and set the pot over high heat. Bring the water to a lively bubble. Adjust the heat so the water does not boil over, and keep the pot partially covered. Cook the potatoes 15 to 20 minutes, or until easily pierced with a fork. Meanwhile pour 1 cup of the milk, the butter, and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large bowl.

Sauteing the Flavorings: While the potatoes are cooking, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat. Add the onions and all but 2 tablespoons of the parsley. Turn the heat to medium-low and cover. Cook 15 minutes, or until the onions are soft and clear. Stir occasionally. Uncover and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, 8 minutes, or until the onions are golden brown. Then stir in the garlic and basil, and cook another minute. Add the water and scrape up any brown bits in the skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Turn into the large bowl.

Mashing the Potatoes: When the potatoes are tender, drain and peel them. Pass the hot potatoes through the coarse blade of a food mill set over the large bowl or mash them in the bowl with a potato masher. Blend the mashed potatoes with the ingredients at the bottom of the bowl. Season to taste. If the potatoes seem dry, add more milk. The mixture should be like very thick whipped cream, but not so loose that it will not hold a high mound on a spoon. Lightly oil a shallow 2 1/2 quart baking dish. Spread half the potato mixture over the bottom of the dish. top with half of the cheese, and then spread the remaining potatoes over the cheese. Sprinkle with the rest of the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Baking and Serving: Preheat the oven to 350F. Lightly cover the potatoes with aluminum foil, and bake 30 minutes, or until hot to the center. Just before serving, sprinkle with the reserved 2 tablespoons parsley. Serve hot.

Serves 8

This is one of my favorite TV cooking personalities from the late 60's early 70's. His dishes are fantastic so I thought I would share this one with you.

For 6 huge servings you will need:

3 lbs stewing beef (cut in strips 2 inches x 1 inch x 1 inch)

2 lbs. soup bones

3 lbs. marrowbones (only bone and marrow, not outer fat of meat)

128 fl. oz. cold water

1lb. yellow turnips (blanched)

2 cloves

2 medium onions

4 carrots

8 oz leeks

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 small green cabbage head, 12 oz.

1 lb. potatoes

1 oz freshly ground salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic

Bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 4 stalks parsley, 3 inch piece of celery)

Bring water to boiling point in very large pot. Place the washed bones in this liquid, cover and simmer for three hours. Skim frequently.

4 fl oz of ice water can be added occasionally to check stock from boiling to make it easier to skim unnecessary fat and foam from top.

After 3rd hour, add beef, bouquet garni and coriander and continue to simmer for another hour.

Now remove bones (keeping marrow bones for later use) and bring stock to boiling point. Add turnip, carrots, leeks, potatoes, all roughly sliced.

Stick cloves into whole onions and add them.

Skewer garlic with a metal or wooden pick or needle (so you can find it) and add to stock. Simmer 10 minutes.

Add cabbage sliced into wedges (one piece per guest) and simmer 20 minutes.

Add salt and pepper when vegetables are tender. Remove garlic.

Service:

Pour stock, meat, vegetables and marrow bones into a serving pot or large casserole with lid and keep covered until required. Pot au feu is usually served in 20fl oz capacity earthenware pots called marmites, but large soup plates can be used. However you must always serve little gherkins (sour type), course table salt and hot mustard on side.

Special Hint:

Absolutely vital you use 4 fl oz ice water technique (Step 2.) It clears stock as you go and stops "bone taint" - the stewed taste of bones.

The Floating Fat

When fat floats to the top of gravy, soups, or stews it is easily removed by placing a slice of fresh white bread on top of the fat for a few seconds. The fat will be quickly absorbed and the bread should be disposed of. Be sure to not leave the bread too long or it will deteriorate and fall apart in your food.

Eliminating Fats From Soups and Stews

Fats can be eliminated through the use of lettuce and ice without refrigerating the food and taking the time for the fat to rise to the top. A good percentage of fat can be eliminated by either placing 4-5 ice cubes in a piece of ordinary cheesecloth and swirling it around in the soup or stew or by placing a few lettuce leaves in the food and stirring them for a few minutes then removing them and throwing them away. Fat is attracted to the cold and tends to have an affinity for lettuce leaves. Another method is to gently place a piece of paper towel on the top and absorb the excess fat (works great on pizzas too).

Stop Gravy From Separating

One of the more frequent problems when cooking gravy is when the gravy decides to separate into fat globules. To solve the problem all you have to do is add a ping or two of baking soda to emulsify the fat globules in a matter of seconds.

Go For Paul's

Spaghetti sauces are really best if they are homemade. Commercial sauces are for the most part higher in fat content and calories. Prego Extra Chunky with sausage and green peppers 9s 47% fat. Ragu Marinara is 40% fat. The only sauce I recommend is Newman's Own. The mushroom sauce is only 22% fat.

What Can You Do To Stop Curdling?

There is always the risk of curdling especially if you are preparing cream soup and sauces. To avoid the problem you should always wait until you have thickened the mixture with flour or cornstarch before adding any ingredients that are acidic, such as wine, or any type of citrus or tomatoes. Remember, heavy whipping cream won't curdle when you boil it.

The USDA inspectors mark beef carcasses (including full, half and quarter carcasses) with a quality grade mark. Quality grading is designed to distinguish between differences in palatability among carcasses. In red meat carcasses the quality grade has served as a nationwide guide to the eating qualities of meat, including its tenderness, juiciness and flavor.

Beef quality attributes considered to be of value include: 1 maturity, 2 marbling, 3 texture of the lean, 4 firmness of the lean and fat, and 5 color of the lean and fat.

The quality grade is determined by considering the degree of marbling and firmness as observed in the cut surface of the rib eye in relation to the maturity of the carcass. In other words, a younger beef cannot be expected to have the same marbling in the rib eye as the older one.

There are eight grades of beef, although only the first three or four are usually sold in markets. These grades are, in descending order of quality: Prime, Choice, Select, Standard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, Canner.

The first two grades- prime and choice- are top quality, the select grade is average. The other grades should not be used in most circumstances.

Three Choice Grade levels

The Choice Grade represents beef which is 15% more marbled than Select. The Choice Grade covers a very broad spectrum of beef. Within the Choice Grade, there are three different levels of quality, which are usually called:

Small marbling Modest marbling Moderate marbling Moderately marbled USDA Choice is the top cut, just one step short of Prime. Branded beef often uses this top cut of Choice for its program (see below).

Decline in beef quality Chefs should know a little about the history of the grading system in order to understand how a change in the grading system led to a decline in the quality of beef. Experts agree that the quality of beef today is much worse that it was twenty years ago. This will explain the reason.

Prior to 1987, the top three grades of beef in the U.S. were Prime, Choice and Good. The major difference was the degree of marbling: Prime is 15% more marbled than Choice, which is 15% more marbled than Good. About three-fourths of grain-fed beef was graded Prime or Choice.

The National Cattlemen's Association (NCA) started a nationwide consumer movement for lean beef. At the request of the NCA, Texas A&M University produced the "National Consumer Retail Beef Study", which began the "War on Fat". The study recommended that consumers be educated to purchase lean beef.

The problem was that beef graded Prime and Choice were fatter, and consumers had learned that beef graded Good was lean but tough.

The "solution" - so typically the resort of those with poor ideas but a "we know better than them" conviction - was to change the definition. That is, change the name of the grade from Good to Select, so that consumers could be "fooled" into thinking that a lean cut was better than one with fat. In other words, consumers would be "re-educated" (some would call the government's efforts nothing less than propaganda) to prefer lean, lower-quality beef.

As opposed to the fraudulent "solution", the fact is that the taste of beef results from marbling (intermuscular fat). Prime Grade beef tastes better than lowers graded beef because it has more marbling - more fat. Conversely, leaner beef has less marbling and less taste.

In the 1980s, some people argued that consumers deserved to be educated, not brain-washed. They urged the industry to educate consumers on the following facts: (1) marbled beef tastes better than leaner beef; (2) marbled beef is more expensive than leaner beef; but (3) eating too much marbled beef is not healthy. Those who urged this lost the argument to others who wanted to "fool the consumers" with a combination of a name-change coupled with the false and incomplete message that "lean beef tastes better and is healthier". Both statements are false: lean beef does not taste better, and lean beef if not healthier.

Skeptics may argue that the beef industry succeeded beyond their wildest expectations and hopes. After all, now 80% of Prime Grade U.S. beef is exported (mostly to Japan) at premium prices; U.S. consumers are now buying low-quality beef without objection; and the low-quality beef costs the industry much less to produce (yet it now produces the same revenue as previously received for high-quality beef).

For more information, see Robb Walsh's story, "A Matter of Fat".

In 1987, as a result of the study, the USDA Good Grade was renamed the Select Grade. Since then, consumers have been "educated" into believing that lean beef like Select Grade is a high quality grade, and beef of the highest quality has declined in availability (quantity) and, according to some, even in quality. According to Marilyn Spiera, President of the famous Brooklyn steakhouse, Peter Luger, "A lot of the meat they now sell as 'Prime' wouldn't even be graded 'Choice' 35 years ago." Quoted by John Mariani, Ready for Prime Time.

CAB and other branded beef programs Because the 1987 changes led consumers to experience a decrease in the quality (taste) of beef, a market for higher quality beef developed, which itself led to the development of branded beef programs. The best marketed and thus best known program now is the Certified Angus Beef (CAB).

CAB uses the top third of the Choice Grade, which is called the Moderately Marbled level of Choice. With the consumer confusion caused by the USDA's changes, CAB allows consumers an alternative to the confusing (for them) government grading. According to a report, "After the USDA issues a grade, an Angus grader comes through and stamps the meat that fits their program. What they are taking is, by and large, the top level of USDA Choice." CAB and other programs market their beef without the USDA labels and pass off as the highest quality those cuts which are not quite Prime Grade but are nevertheless affordable.

Most consumers and even many barbecue cooks believe incorrectly that CAB is Prime Grade. Of course, that is exactly what CAB wants consumers to believe (and it is the reason that CAB itself does not usually label the USDA Grade on its products).

CAB is only one of the many branded beef programs. Sterling Silver and others are also widely available.

In addition, there are a new generation of "organic", "natural" and "hormone-free" beef sold in the U.S. While these in the past had been available only from "health food stores", they are now becoming commonly available in supermarkets.

Yield grades

The USDA grades beef with a yield grade, in addition to the quality grade. Yield grading is designed to illustrate the percentage of lean meat that can be obtained from a beef carcass. The yield grade of a beef carcass is determined by four characteristics: (1) amount of external fat; (2) amount of kidney, pelvic, and heart fat; (3) area of the rib eye muscle; and, (4) warm carcass weight.

There are five yield grades numbered 1 through 5. Beef carcasses in Yield Grade 1 have the highest degree of cutability while carcasses in Yield Grade 5 have the lowest. (Cutability refers to the proportion of the carcass weight that is actually saleable at the retail counter.) Yield grades are applied without regard to quality grade. Grades such as USDA Prime-1, Choice-1, Choice-2, or any combination of quality grade and yield grade may be applied to the carcass.

Grading not mandatory

Commercial produced beef in the United States is not required to be officially graded. For example, most States have a department to inspect and grade meat and poultry, but federal law prohibits the interstate transportation of any meat or poultry that has not been federally inspected.

8 (6-8 ounces) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

Pepper

Vegetable spray

Adjust oven racks to middle and lower positions, place rimmed baking sheet on lower rack, and heat oven to 450 degrees.

Using metal skewer, poke skin side of chicken thighs 10 to 12 times. Season both sides of thighs with salt and pepper, spray skin lightly with vegetable oil spray. Place thighs skin side down on preheated baking sheet. Return baking sheet to bottom rack.

Roast chicken until skin side is beginning to brown and meat registers 160 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pan. Remove chicken from oven and heat broiler.

While broiler heats, flip chicken skin side up. Broil chicken on middle rack until skin is crisp and well browned and meat registers 175 degrees, about 5 minutes, rotating pan as needed for even browning. Transfer chicken to platter and let rest for 5 minutes.

Pour some kosher salt into the skillet and rub vigorously with a kitchen towel over the side and bottom of the pan. The abrasiveness of the salt will put a fine polish on the skillet. Discard the salt and proceed with the recipe.

To remove the smoky, unpleasant taste from scorched rice, scoop the rice into a clean pot, being careful not to scrape in any of the crusty bottom at the same time. Place a single layer of onion skins on top of the rice. Cover the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. The onion skins will remove the acrid taste from the rice. Discard the onion skins and serve.

Here is another great dessert recipe to finish off Thanksgiving dinner

2 cups whole milk, or use a combination of milk and heavy whipping cream, divided

1/3 cup sugar

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate cut into 1/4 inch pieces

2 ounces milk chocolate, cut into1/4 inch pieces

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons alkalized (Dutch process) cocoa powder

3 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract, rum or a sweet liqueur

Combine 1 1/2 cups milk with the sugar in a non-reactive saucepan. Whisk to mix. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and add chocolates. Let stand 5 minutes, then whisk smooth.

Meanwhile, pour remaining 1/2 cup milk in a mixing bowl; whisk in cornstarch, sift in cocoa, then whisk in eggs.

Return milk and chocolate mixture to a simmer over low heat, whisking often so it doesn't scorch. Whisk a third of the hot liquid into the egg mixture.

Return the remaining milk and chocolate mixture to a simmer and then slowly whisk in the egg mixture, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens and just comes to a boil.

Off heat, whisk in vanilla. Fill individual cups or glasses with the pudding and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of each, to prevent a skin from forming. Chill the puddings and serve cold, with a spoonful of whipped cream, if desired.

This is a great dessert to serve at Thanksgiving!

12 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, cut into 1/4 inch pieces

1/2 cup milk

2 cups heavy whipping cream

4 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup coffee, orange juice, or sweet liqueur (if using sweet liqueur, reduce sugar to 3 tablespoons)

Chocolate shavings, whipped cream, or both to garnish

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil and remove from heat. Put cut chocolate and milk in a heatproof bowl and place over the pan of hot water. Stir occasionally to melt chocolate evenly. Once chocolate has melted remove bowl from pan and whisk smooth.

While the chocolate is melting, whip cream until it holds a soft peak. If it is warm in the room, cover and refrigerate the cream while preparing sabayon.

Return the pan of water to a boil. In a heatproof bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the yolks together by hand. Whisk in the sugar and the liquid flavoring. Replace the bowl over the pan of simmering water and beat constantly until the mixture thickens slightly. Remove from heat and use an electric mixer on medium speed to beat sabayon until cool and risen in volume. To finish, by hand whisk the bowl of hot sabayon over a bowl of cold water with a few ice cubes in it until cool and thickened. Do not let the sabayon become ice cold.

To assemble the mousse, whisk the chocolate mixture into the sabayon, and quickly fold in the whipped cream. Place mousse in a bowl or glasses and garnish with extra whipped cream, if desired, and chocolate shavings. Refrigerate until about an hour before serving.

Makes about 6 to 8 servings

Makes 3 Quarts

1/2 pound bacon

1 large onion sliced

1 stalk celery sliced

1 large sprig sage

1 hubbard squash or other firm dry pumpkin or winter squash(about 3 1/2 pounds)

8 cups water

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Remove the rind and any hard, dry skin from the bacon. Cut the bacon into 1/4 inch dice.

Place a large saucepan over low heat, add the bacon pieces, and cook gently so they render their fat. When most of their fat is rendered, add the onion, celery, and sage, stirring to coat with the fat. Cook until the vegetables soften slightly, about 7 minutes.

Cut the squash into quarters and remove the seeds. Peel the squash and coarsely chop into smaller, even sized pieces. Set aside.

Pour 1 cup of water into the pan with the vegetables, increase the heat to high and, using a wooden spoon, deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom. Add the remaining 7 cups water, the squash pieces, 1 tablespoon of salt, and some pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, covered, until the squash is very soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the sage and let the soup cool slightly.

Puree the soup, in batches, in a blender and pour into a clean saucepan. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and reheat the soup to serve.